Bastogne War Museum, Easy Company foxholes, German war cemetery
Intel (Basic information)
Location: Bastogne, Belgium
Cost: Bastogne War Museum – 27€ (includes access to Bois Jacques Battlefield), Recogne-Bastogne German Military Cemetery – Free
Hours: Museum – hours vary seasonally, 9:30-6:00 in summer, Cemetery – 8:00-5:00, Foxholes – 9:00-6:00
More Information: Bastogne War Museum, Bois Jaques Foxholes, German War Cemetery
What to Watch: Band of Brothers (HBO miniseries)
Mission Briefing (Bastogne and World war iI)
The Belgian town of Bastogne played a central role in one of the most well-known clashes of World War II, the Battle of the Bulge. During “the bulge,” the Germans attempted a final offensive push into the Ardennes region of Belgium and Luxembourg beginning in December 1944. Following weeks of intense fighting, the Allies successfully halted the German advance and the Battle of the Bulge concluded at the end of January 1945. Both sides suffered heavy losses and the battle would go on to become the bloodiest of the entire war.
The town of Bastogne was defended during the battle by the U.S. 101st Airborne Division (of Band of Brothers fame). Upon entering Bastogne, the 101st was completely surrounded for a week as German forces laid siege to the town. Even after the encirclement was broken by the arrival of Patton’s Third Army, Bastogne remained the scene of intense combat throughout the Battle of the Bulge.
“We’re paratroopers, Lieutenant, we’re supposed to be surrounded.”
– Damian Lewis as Major Richard Winters in Band of Brothers
Today, Bastogne celebrates its role in the Second World War through a variety of sites which are of particular interest to Band of Brothers fans, but should be visited by anyone seeking a greater understanding of the Battle of the Bulge and the Ardennes region.
Bastogne War Museum
It is not an exaggeration to state that the Bastogne War Museum is the best, most immersive museum I have ever visited. Tucked away in a lesser known corner of Belgium, far from the coast or the heavy hitting towns of Bruges or Brussels, my visit to the town of Bastogne and its war museum did not initially elicit high expectations. I could not have been more wrong.
The museum combines immersive sets with authentic artifacts to tell the story of Bastogne and its involvement in the Battle of the Bulge in a highly engaging manner. The experience is further enhanced by the museum’s use of narrators. Through an audio guide, four people (a young boy, a school teacher, an American soldier and a German soldier) “guide” you through what it was like to live and fight in Bastogne during the battle. The guides provide a human element to the story and allow the visitor to gain a more personal understanding of the events. The stories are interwoven with multimedia exhibits which help create a truly memorable museum-going experience that is sure to leave even the most hardened visitor in tears by the end.
Bois Jacques Battlefield (101st Foxholes)
While the Bastogne War Museum does a fantastic job bringing the Battle of the Bulge to life through the use of technology and personal connection, the next site elevates the experience even further. A short 4 km drive from the museum will bring you to the edge of a small cluster of trees surrounded by a fence and turnstile entry gate. Within these boundaries visitors can walk amongst both the trees of the Bois Jacques as well as the foxholes of the 101st.
To those uninterested in World War II history, these may appear nothing more than a dozen or so holes in the middle of a sparse grouping of trees, but to those in the know they are so much more. It was from these foxholes that the men of the 101st Airborne Division’s Easy Company held the line as they battled encirclement by German troops. The site has become a pilgrimage location for fans of the story, and for good reason. It is remarkable that over eighty years later, visitors can still walk amongst the actual foxholes used by the men of Easy Company. It is rare to experience such a tangible and easily accessible piece of World War II history. While museums are incredibly valuable to sharing the story of the Battle of the Bulge, the Bois Jacques foxholes provide an unmatched level of authenticity to the Bastogne war tour experience.
Recogne German Military Cemetery
A visit to an area which played host to a major battle will almost always include a visit to a nearby cemetery. While the major American cemeteries for the Battle of the Bulge are located an hour north near the town of Liège, there is a German cemetery in Bastogne. The Recogne German Military Cemetery is the final resting place of over 6800 Germans, many of whom lost their lives during the Battle of the Bulge.
After visiting the sprawling grounds of the Normandy American Cemetery, with its immaculately maintained landscape and peaceful location above the beaches of Normandy, I was unsure of what to expect from a German cemetery. The first difference between the two locations, which I noted immediately upon arrival, was the lack of visitors. The American cemetery was packed with tour groups and individual tourists, while we were the only ones strolling through the Recogne Cemetery. Aside from that, the grounds were still beautifully maintained and the graves showed clear signs of respectful upkeep. There is certainly a different feeling associated with visiting a German cemetery, and a trip to this location may not be for everyone, but it does help provide a more complete understanding of the enormous impact of the Battle of the Bulge.
Bastogne Town Center
Our final stop in Bastogne led us to the center of town where a handful of additional reminders of the town’s importance in the war remain. The first is a statue of General Anthony McAuliffe, the commander of the 101st Airborne Division during the Battle of the Bulge. After receiving a request for surrender from the Germans, McAuliffe gained notoriety due to his colorful response.
“To the German Commander: NUTS!”
– General McAuliffe in response to the German demand for an “honorable surrender,” December 22, 1944
Today, a bronze statue of McAuliffe stands in the appropriately named square Place Général McAuliffe.
Located next to the McAuliffe statue is a Sherman tank which took part in the Battle of the Bulge. The tank was recovered after the war and placed in the square complete with holes created by German armor piercing shells.
A visit to Bastogne is a must for anyone seeking to better understand one of the most notorious battles of the entire Second World War. The town proudly displays its wartime history and maintains excellent sites devoted to preserving its memory.
Read next: Curious George: How the Nazis Almost Destroyed a Beloved Character
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