Eagle's Nest: Historical Background
Commissioned by Nazi official Martin Bormann in 1937, the Eagle’s Nest (known as Kehlsteinhaus in German) was designed as a tea house for high-ranking members of the Nazi party who frequented the nearby town of Berchtesgaden in the heart of the Bavarian Alps. A common myth prevails that the Eagle’s Nest was built as a birthday present for Hitler as he visited the completed retreat on his 50th birthday. However, Hitler was famously afraid of heights and only visited the tea house on 14 documented occasions. He much preferred to host official party meetings as well as visiting dignitaries at the Berghof, a home perched lower on the Obersalzberg mountain which contains the Eagle’s Nest at its peak.
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The Eagle’s Nest was captured by Allied troops in April 1945. While the nearby complex of Obersalzberg, including Hitler’s mountain home the Berghof, were heavily bombed by the Allies, the Eagle’s Nest was spared due to its remote mountaintop location and lack of strategic significance. Because of this, the Eagle’s Nest remains a relatively untouched piece of Nazi history which can be visited today.
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How to Visit the Eagle's Nest
The best way to visit the Eagle’s Nest is by guided tour. While it is accessible by private car (or hike), the road to the top is treacherously steep and is closed during the winter months due to safety concerns (note that tours also do not operate in the winter). Guided tours allow you to conveniently visit other Nazi sites in Berchtesgaden and Obersalzberg including the sprawling ruins of the Berghof. You will also learn about the various Nazis who spent much of their time in this alpine retreat including Hitler’s personal architect Albert Speer, chief propagandist Joseph Goebbels, leader of the Luftwaffe Hermann Göring and Hitler’s longtime partner Eva Braun.
Finally, you will gain a better understanding of why Berchtesgaden, far from the German capital of Berlin, was the location Hitler chose to spend up to a quarter of his time during his reign as Führer. Born in Austria, Hitler viewed Berchtesgaden, surrounded on three sides by Austria, as the perfect location in the Bavarian Alps.
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Whether visiting on your own or with a tour group, be sure to stop by the Obersalzberg Documentation Center. Opened in 1999, this museum presents both permanent and special exhibits on the Nazi reign of terror and the role Obersalzberg and the Eagle’s Nest played during this period. The museum is open daily from 9am to 5pm. Unlike the Eagle’s Nest, the museum is open year-round (except for major holidays.)
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A Journey to the Eagle's Nest
The road to the Eagle’s Nest typically opens in mid-spring when the winter weather has subsided for the year and the journey is deemed safe. We set out on a guided tour in early June (D-Day to be exact!) After boarding a tour bus at the Berchtesgaden train station, our knowledgeable tour guide led us through the rubble of the Obersalzberg, expertly painting a picture of the once sprawling complex and its role as the preferred Nazi party retreat. Following a quick stop at the Obersalzberg Documentation Center, we began our steep ascent to the Eagle’s Nest. After transferring to specially designed buses, capable of handling the 27% incline, we began our journey to the top.
The view on the way up is stunning, but not for the faint of heart. As the journey began I sat at the window eagerly snapping picture after picture before a startling realization hit me. I share something in common with Hitler, a fear of heights. I quickly relocated to the interior of the bus and allowed my camera to rest for the remainder of the journey. The bus ride takes approximately 20 minutes and takes you through five tunnels before depositing you at the base of the Eagle’s Nest. A final ride up a gold-plated elevator puts you into the heart of the retreat, 1,834 meters (6,017 feet) above sea level.
Today the location’s primary function apart from welcoming tour groups is serving hungry patrons. That’s right, Hitler’s once soaring retreat is now primarily a restaurant. We chose to bypass a bite at the Bergrestaurant Kehlsteinhaus, as it is called, in favor of immersing ourselves in the historical setting and the stunning views. Despite its somewhat controversial transformation into a dining facility, the majority of the Eagle’s Nest interior remains largely unaltered from its original aesthetic. A stroll through the building allows you to view many authentic architectural details including the fireplace which was supposedly gifted to Hitler by Benito Mussolini as a birthday present. Additionally you can stroll along the sun porch (as seen in Band of Brothers) and various other rooms including Hitler’s study and Eva Braun’s room.
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Reflections on a Visit to the Eagle's Nest
After exploring the interior, we decided to complete the small climb up to the top of the mountain, a decision which afforded us unparalleled views of the Eagle’s Nest itself as well as the surrounding mountains. It was here that I was first hit by a realization that has since plagued me through many of my World War II related travels as I experienced a moment of purest dichotomy. I have been fortunate enough in my life to travel to some of the most awe-inspiring places on the planet. I have explored the stunning expanse of the fjords of Eastern Iceland, wandered amongst the ancient ruins of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat and watched the northern lights paint the sky at a remote home in the Alaskan interior, and yet I struggle to think of a more idyllic setting than the views experienced at the top of the Eagle’s Nest.
How can a place of such serene and untouched natural beauty also bear the heavy reminder of one of the darkest chapters in human history? How can I traverse a landscape which inspires more awe with each step knowing the moat heinous of humans walked this same path? This is a common struggle when visiting sites that serve to remind us that the beauty of the world often contains a darker shadow lurking just below the surface.
As I pondered these questions, the notes of Rodgers and Hammerstein’s “Edelweiss” began to drift past me. As I glanced around I noticed they came from an accordion player perched beneath a cross adorned with an edelweiss flower. Performed by the Von Trapp family as a final farewell to the Austria they so loved before fleeing the evil of the Nazis in The Sound of Music, I couldn’t think of a more perfect song to capture this moment of reflection.
Visit the Eagle’s Nest for a lesson on the not-so-distant horrors of the past, but stay for a reminder of the beauty in the present.
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