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London in WWII: A Brief History
England officially entered World War II on September 3, 1939. Following Germany’s invasion of Poland, England (along with France) declared war on Germany. Even though war was officially declared, the fighting didn’t reach English shores until after the defeat of France by Nazi Germany in June 1940. Following France’s fall, the Germans launched a widescale air attack against the island nation, a campaign which would become known as the Battle of Britain. The battle raged over the British skies for over three months. Despite relentless bombardments, mass destruction of property and heavy casualties, the British people refused to surrender, and the German Luftwaffe failed to reach its objectives.
In the final weeks of the Battle of Britain, the Germans began a new targeted bombing campaign against the British. This campaign became known as the Blitz and would continue for the next eight months. The bombs finally stopped falling in May 1941 when Hitler reallocated resources to the Eastern Front.
Throughout this year-long nightmare of bombings, fires and destruction, the people of London refused to back down. The city remained the seat of power in Great Britain and the nation remained an active player in the war throughout its duration. Today, scars of this period as well as reminders of British resilience can still be seen throughout the city of London.
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Top WWII Sites in London
The people of Great Britain are, understandably, proud of their role in the Second World War and are eager to preserve its memory. Because of this, London and its surrounding areas contain countless sites dedicated to the conflict. These sites range from sprawling museums to simple road-side memorials. The sheer number of options is enough to overwhelm even the most history-driven traveler. Because of this, I have selected the sites I believe best represent the story of WWII in London and described them below. They are all located within central London and can be visited on even the quickest trip to the city.
Looking for WWII sites beyond London? Check out Dover Castle and its secret wartime tunnels.
Churchill War Rooms
If you visit only one WWII site in London, it should be the Churchill War Rooms. Construction on this underground collection of rooms began in 1938 and was completed by August 1939. Designed to provide protection for the British government during enemy bombings, the complex included a map room, cabinet room, offices and private living quarters.
Following the surrender of Japan in August 1945, the complex was abandoned. The site remained largely untouched for the next several decades before it was converted into a museum and opened to the public in 1984. The war rooms provide an amazing snapshot into the inner workings of the British government during the war years due to their quick abandonment and lack of outside interference immediately following the war.
A guide is not necessary to visit the war rooms as your admission will include a thorough audio guide. However, the museum does offer guided tours for an additional cost. The site also includes a well-presented museum on Winston Churchill, which traces his life both before, during and after the war.
- Address – Clive Steps, King Charles Street, London, SW1A 2AQ
- Hours – 9:30am to 6pm daily, last entry 5pm
- Cost – Adult £33, Child £16.50
- Website – Churchill War Rooms
Imperial War Museum
To provide some clarity, the Imperial War Museums are a sprawling complex of sites located in London and beyond. Both the Churchill War Rooms and the HMS Belfast (described below) are under this umbrella of museums.
The Imperial War Museum London represents another branch of the greater museum complex. While the museum is not solely dedicated to the Second World War, it does contain permanent galleries devoted to both WWII as well as the Holocaust. The museum tells the story of the war through a variety of artifacts and through the personal narratives of those who lived it.
- Address – Lambeth Road, London, SE1 6HZ
- Hours – 10am – 6pm daily
- Cost – Free
- Website – Imperial War Museum London
HMS Belfast
Moored on the River Thames in the shadow of the Tower Bridge rests the HMS Belfast. This light cruiser was commissioned in 1939 and remained in service with the Royal Navy until 1963. She participated in the Battle of North Cape in the Arctic Campaign as well as Operation Overlord (the D-Day landings).
The HMS Belfast became a part of the Imperial War Museum in 1977 and was subsequently restored to her Second World War paint and fittings. Visitors to the cruiser can explore nine of her decks and enjoy a beautiful view of several iconic London landmarks from her main deck.
- Address – The Queen’s Walk, London, SE1 2JH
- Hours – 10am to 5pm, last entry 4pm
- Cost – Adult £26.35, Child £13.15
- Website – HMS Belfast
St. Paul's Cathedral
This cathedral became a rallying landmark for the people of London during the Blitz. The night of December 29, 1940 saw London fall victim to heavy bombing by the German Luftwaffe. In the early morning hours of December 30, a British photographer snapped a photo of the dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral. Despite the utter destruction of the surrounding buildings, and an estimated 29 bombs which had fallen in its immediate vicinity, the cathedral continued to stand proud. The picture became a symbol of resilience to the people of London as they continued to persevere through several more months of German bombing.
While it is still a functioning place of worship, the cathedral is open to visitors. However, non-worshippers require tickets.
- Address – St. Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8AD
- Hours – Varies by day, typically open Monday – Saturday 8:30am to 4pm (opens later on Wednesday)
- Cost – Adult £27, Child £10.50
- Website – St. Paul’s Cathedral
Booking a Tour
Each of the sites listed above can be visited without a guide, however, it may be worthwhile to consider a tour for those who would like a greater understanding of what life was like in London during WWII. An experienced guide will be able to provide you with additional stories and context which cannot be obtained by simply visiting a handful of sites.
Urban Saunters offers two WWII-themed tour options. Their Winston Churchill and London in World War II Walking Tour features stops at the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey and Whitehall. The tour runs a minimum of 90-minutes and provides a great overview of the impact of the war on the city.
The second tour offering combines a walking tour with entry to the Churchill War Rooms. This is a great option for anyone planning to visit the museum as the tour will conclude at the entrance and your timed ticket is included.
London in WWII: Sleeping
There are countless lodging options in London to suit every style and budget. However, instead of providing a list of my favorite places to stay, I am including a list of hotels with strong ties to the war years. Due to their age and historic standing, these hotels are definitely on the pricier side. As such, if a stay is not within your budget, consider stopping in to one or more simply to witness their grandeur and significance to the war.
St. Ermin's
Opened as a hotel in 1899, St. Ermin’s played a covert role during the Second World War when it served as the headquarters for MI6’s Section D. Known as “Churchill’s Secret Army,” this group carried out spy operations behind enemy lines all across Europe. The hotel contains display cases highlighting many of the spy gadgets used by agents during the war.
- Address – 2 Caxton St, London SW1H 0QW
- Star Rating – 4
- Rooms – 331 (sleeps 2-6 depending on room type)
- Website – St. Ermin’s Hotel
Corinthia London
Opened in 1885, this hotel also has strong ties to the world of espionage as it became home to both MI9 and the Special Operations Executive. The hotel also played a role in the planning of the D-Day landings as it held a model planning beach for the operation.
- Address – 10 Whitehall Pl, London SW1A 2BD
- Star Rating – 5
- Rooms – 283 (including 51 suites and 7 penthouses)
- Website – Corinthia London
Claridge's
This regal hotel, originally opened in 1856, became a home away from home for exiled dignitaries during the war. It hosted the kings of Greece, Norway, and Yugoslavia. One suite of the hotel officially became the territory of Yugoslavia on July 17, 1945 when the queen of Yugoslavia gave birth to Crown Prince Alexander II.
- Address – Brook St, London W1K 4HR
- Star Rating – 5
- Rooms – 269 (including the Prince Alexander Suite)
- Website – Claridge’s
The Savoy
A popular meeting spot for foreign dignitaries, journalists, and English politicians, the Savoy hosted some of the most famous names of WWII, including Winston Churchill and Charles de Gaulle. The hotel’s grandeur was unmatched and even reached into the underground. The Savoy was renowned for having the most luxurious air raid shelter in the city.
- Address – Strand, London WC2R 0EZ
- Star Rating – 5
- Rooms – 267 (many with views of the River Thames)
- Website – The Savoy
Interest in more WWII sites in Europe? Check out my Ultimate Guide.
London in WWII: Eating
As is the case with hotels, London is filled with innumerable dining options. Due to its size and diverse population, the city is home to every cuisine at every price point to fit every taste and budget. Because of this, I once again kept my recommendations on theme. Each of the restaurants described below were in operation during the war years, a time when many establishments were forced to shutter their doors. If gaining a better understanding of London in WWII is a high priority, be sure to add one of these restaurants to your dining bucket list.
Rules
Opened in 1798, Rules is the oldest restaurant in London. It remained open during the war offering diners an elevated, yet still rationed, experience. The who’s who of London elite have dined at Rules including Charles Dickens and Laurence Olivier. Today’s diners can expect a fine dining experience with décor and ambiance to match.
- Address – 35 Maiden Ln, London WC2E 7LB
- Reservations – required
- Cuisine – Traditional British
- Price – $$$$
- Website – Rules
Wiltons
Wiltons is one of the premier seafood restaurants in London. It is famous for its oysters which have been a part of its story since George William Wilton started selling seafood in 1742. In 1942, the owner of Wiltons sought to sell the restaurant due to the difficulties of living in the city during the war. She sold the establishment to one of her loyal customers and Wiltons managed to keep its doors open during the difficult period.
- Address – 55 Jermyn St, London SW1Y 6LX
- Reservations – required
- Cuisine – seafood
- Price – $$$$
- Website – Wiltons
London has no shortage of connections to the Second World War. It was shaped by the Blitz. Its people suffered years of air raid sirens, bombings and strict rationing. The impact of the war is still very much alive on the streets today. It was an event that forever altered the landscape of this mighty city. Because of this, even the most casual visitor should seek to better understand the impact of WWII on the city of London by stopping by one of its many sites, popping into a grand hotel lobby or sitting down to eat at a historic restaurant. It will certainly help you gain a better appreciation for its not-so-distant past.
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