September 15, 1940: Inside the Battle of Britain Bunker
The date is September 15, 1940. The Battle of Britain has been raging in the skies about the nation for months with no end in site. London has been the target of nightly bombing runs by the German Luftwaffe. Property has been destroyed, civilians have been forced to flee their homes and pilots from around the world have lost their lives in the defense of Britain. The Germans have chosen this day to launch their largest aerial attack against Great Britain, sending over 1500 aircraft into the battle. Their goal was to cripple the British in the air in order to make way for Operation Sea Lion, the planned German land invasion of Great Britain. The RAF pilots, though greatly outnumbered have tirelessly worked throughout the day to stave off each wave of attack. Everyone from the pilots to the forces on the ground are exhausted, but the day is not over and the battle is far from won.
Sixty feet underground in the operations room of RAF Uxbridge there is a mood of hushed focus. The men and women of the No. 11 Fighter Command in the Battle of Britain Bunker have a daunting task in front of them, but it is a task they have performed everyday for the last two months. Working in eight hour shifts, they coordinate the operations of all of the airfields within their assigned sector of the country, a zone which includes the city of London. They spend long hours plotting enemy positions, scrambling fighters, monitoring weather conditions, charting defensive measures, and recording every minute detail having to do with Royal Air Force, a task which has proven particularly tiring on this September day due to the unrelenting onslaught of enemy fighters. Despite the exhausting conditions in this cramped room devoid of sunlight, the work continues.
The workers in the command center at RAF Uxbridge don’t know it yet, but by the end of the day on September 15, 1940, the tide of the Battle of Britain had been turned. Through the harrowing efforts of the Allied pilots and the tireless work of the operations room within the bunker, Germany’s plan to eradicate the RAF had been repulsed. Not only would Great Britain live to fight another day, but the members of the No. 11 Fighter Command helped thwart Hitler’s plans to launch a full-scale invasion of the island. The Battle of Britain was not officially won, but the initiative had shifted and the prospect of a total British victory was on the horizon.
Today, you can visit the very spot where some of the most critical war-winning decisions were made. Just a short journey beyond central London lies the Battle of Britain Bunker. This underground command center was abandoned after the war, ensuring its contents remained intact and ready to be preserved for future generations to visit. The command rooms has been restored to match their appearance on September 15, 1940, a date which has since become known as Battle of Britain Day. Step inside this living piece of WWII history to gain a better understanding of the role of this bunker during one the tensest points in the conflict. It is truly an underrated destination for anyone with a passion for the Second World War.
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History of The Battle of Britain Bunker
"Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few"
Construction on the Battle of Britain Bunker began in early 1939. Even before Germany’s invasion of Poland to kickstart the war in Europe, the writing was on the wall that another great conflict was just around the corner. It became apparent that the RAF would need a base of operations, a place which could withstand the potential threat of enemy bombs. The bunker was constructed near the Royal Air Force station in Uxbridge, outside of London.
During the war, Great Britain was geographically divided into four RAF Fighter Command Groups. RAF Uxbridge was home to No. 11 Fighter Command Group under Air Vice-Marshal Keith Park. No. 11 Group was responsible for the coordination and defense of Southeast England, including the city of London. It was a critical section of the country which saw the heaviest daytime aerial combat during the entire Battle of Britain. Accordingly, the secrecy and protection of the Battle of Britain Bunker was vital to the success of the entire campaign.
The men and women (80 percent of the workforce in the bunker were women) worked tirelessly to ensure the success of RAF operations. They participated in an air defense system known as the Dowding System, named after Air Chief Marshal Sir Hugh Dowding, in order to coordinate communications between all of the key players in the defense of Great Britain. This included the pilots, Anti-Aircraft Command, Barrage Balloon Command, the Civilian Observer as well as additional intelligence gathering organizations. It was a complicated task which needed to be performed at the highest level of competency. Even a simple mistake could prove costly.
Fortunately, the No. 11 Group Fighter Command proved more than up to the task. In fact, their hard work and dedication inspired one of the most iconic quotes of the entire war. Prime minister Winston Churchill visited the bunker in August 1940. After observing the plotting table within the command center, expertly recorded by the women who plotted each and every fighter squadron, Churchill noticed how few in numbers his pilots seemed. Additionally, he noticed that almost everyone of those few pilots was engaged in enemy conflict simultaneously. Upon leaving the bunker and entering his waiting car, Churchill turned to Air Vice-Marshal Keith Park and uttered his immortal words, “Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed, by so many, to so few.” He would go on to repeat these lines in the House of Commons where they became a rallying cry for the nation.
The Battle of Britain Bunker maintained operations throughout the war, providing a critical role in the Allied invasion of Normandy on D-Day. The site remained an active military compound until 1958 when No. 11 Fighter Command Group moved to a different location. However, the bunker itself sat relatively untouched after the conclusion of WWII. The operations room in the bunker underwent restoration in 1975 and the site opened as a museum in 1985. Today, visitors can step into the bunker, which retains nearly all of its original features, in order to better appreciate this critical command center and the role it played in helping Great Britain win the war.
Be sure to check out WWII Sites in Europe: The Ultimate Guide.
77 Steps Down: A Journey into the Bunker
On a recent trip to London I found myself searching for WWII sites in the area I had not yet visited. After hitting the must-see sites in the city, I began to look in the surrounding areas when I came across the Battle of Britain Bunker. The site was within easy reach of London and seemed interesting enough so I decided to give it a try. As I had trouble finding much outside information on the bunker, I embarked on my journey with low expectations. However, the moment I descended those 77 steps into the historic rooms beneath, I knew I was very wrong. After my visit I feel confident in saying that the Battle of Britain Bunker is the most underrated WWII site in England.
The bunker itself is only accessible with a guided tour (see below). Your guide with bring you down the steps into the historic site. The stairs are slightly uneven, trip hazards spring up within the doorways and the original pipes line the walls on the way down. From the entrance to the rooms themselves, nothing about the structure of the site has been changed since the end of the war. It is a perfectly preserved time capsule of 1940s Great Britain.
The first stop on the tour is the operations room. It was in here that members of No. 11 Group plotted squadron positions, weather and every important piece of information which could affect the operations of the RAF. Our guide explained the order of operations in the room as well as the ins and outs of the Dowding System. Following her explanation of the room, we were allowed to walk around in order to get an up close and personal view of the site. We were permitted to pick up an authentic headset worn by the women working the operations room, intimately study the original plotting map spread across the table and examine each measurement displayed along the back wall. The entire experience was a history lover’s dream. Not only was I standing in a place of great historical significance, I was allowed to touch it!
Our tour continued with a visit to the controller’s cabin, an elevated section of the bunker which overlooked the operations room below. It was from here that commanders were able to make decisions based on the data gathered and plotted below. It was also from here that Winston Churchill observed the operations in August 1940. Attached to the controller’s room is a small museum which highlights some of the heroes who worked in the bunker as well as participated in the Battle of Britain at large.
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Our tour concluded outside of the bunker where we were then given time to visit the museum inside the visitor center. If you are not able to visit the bunker itself, be sure to stop by the museum which provides detailed information about the site and the role of No. 11 Group in the war. I truly cannot recommend a visit to the Battle of Britain Bunker enough. This is one of the best preserved WWII sites I have ever been fortunate enough to visit. Simply being able to step into the space would have been enough for me, but the small group tour and ability to interact directly with historical artifacts made this a destination I would recommend to anyone.
Battle of Britain Bunker Visitor's Guide
The Battle of Britain Bunker is located about 20 miles from central London in the town of Uxbridge, making it a great day-trip option from the city. It can be reached by tube, bus or car. Free parking is available onsite for museum visitors.
The site is open seven days a week from 10:00 am to 4:30 pm, with last admission at 3:30 pm. Adult tickets are £14.00 and children under 16 are free. The only way to visit the bunker itself is by signing up for a guided tour, which lasts approximately one hour. Your admission to the site includes the bunker tour as well as access to the visitor center and museum.
**A note on accessibility** The bunker itself can only be accessed by descending 77 steps below ground. In order to maintain the historical integrity of the site, the bunker and operations room have not been altered to accommodate a ramp or lift. Unfortunately, this does mean that these areas are inaccessible to visitors with reduced mobility. The visitor center and museum are fully accessible. If you or a member of your party are unable to descend the steps to the bunker, please inquire at the front desk about a virtual bunker experience.
Basic Information
Opening hours – 10:00 am to 4:30 pm, 7 days a week
Ticket prices – £14.00/adult, children under 16 free
Café – open 7 days a week from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm
Official Website – Battle of Britain Bunker
If you are interested in visiting more WWII sites in England check out Dover Castle and Operation Dynamo and London in WWII.
Battle of Britain FAQs
What makes the Battle of Britain Bunker so special?
When the bunker fell out of use following the end of the war, the site remained untouched for decades. Because of this, the site retains a level of authenticity often lost to time and progress. Stepping into the bunker feels like stepping back into the tensest days of the Battle of Britain. The authentic feel and original artifacts on display within the site make this a truly unique destination and a must-visit for anyone interested in WWII history.
Can you go inside the actual bunker?
Yes! You can descend into the bunker as a part of a tour. The tour takes approximately one hour and is led by a knowledgeable and engaging guide. You will be permitted to get up close and personal with historical artifacts as you explore the operations room as it would have looked during the Battle of Britain.
How long does a visit to the Battle of Britain Bunker take?
Allow 2-3 hours for your visit. The Battle of Britain Bunker tour will last approximately 1 hour, but you will want to allow plenty of time to explore the museum and grounds. There is also an onsite restaurant where you can enjoy breakfast and lunch as well as tea and coffee.
What additional WWII sites are nearby?
The city of London is packed with WWII sites. Consider a visit to the HMS Belfast, the Churchill War Rooms or the Imperial War Museum, just to name a few. As the number of sites can be overwhelming, consider joining a guided WWII tour of the city. This option is great for those who want to gain a deeper understanding of Great Britain’s role in the war. A few tour options are listed below.
Remembering the Battle of Britain Beyond the Skies
The Battle of Britain is often remembered through the pilots who protected the nation from the air. Don’t get me wrong, these men should continue to hold a place of honor in the annals of history for their courageous acts in the skies. However, there is another group of people who often get overlooked in this harrowing time, the men and women who coordinated the battle from the ground. The Battle of Britain Bunker gives visitors the chance to see a command center exactly as it looked during some of Great Britain’s darkest days. Descend into this unassuming bunker just outside of London to hear the story of the people on the ground who helped ensure Great Britain lived to fight another day.
If you are interested in assistance with planning your next WWII trip, please check out our travel planning services. We would love to help create your dream trip!
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